Nail trimming
You clip or file a dog's nails to keep them at a length it can walk on comfortably. Left too long, they catch and can br...
A bath gets the dirt out and keeps the coat clean. How often you do it, which product you use and how you dry the dog afterwards all depend on its skin and coat type.
A bath cleans the coat and can be part of skin care, but don't run it to a timetable meant for every dog. What matters is how the dog lives, what coat it has, the state of its skin and what the vet has said. A dog that runs through mud every day and one that mostly stays indoors need different things. Don't pick a shampoo because it smells nice, and don't grab one made for people. Use a dog product that suits your dog's situation.
Before you wet the dog, detangle the coat as far as you can. Water tightens some mats and makes them harder to get out. Keep the water at a comfortable temperature and don't aim it suddenly at the face or ears. Stand the dog on a non-slip surface and hold it without pulling at its neck.
Rinse properly. Shampoo left in the coat can irritate the skin. Dry the dog at the pace it can handle: don't rub the towel hard over mats, and bring in the dryer gradually. Too much heat and a dog left on its own are real risks. If your dog is sensitive, split the drying into stages with breaks in between.
Itching, a smell that won't go away, unusual hair loss, wounds or discharge mean a trip to the vet. A bath won't do the job of a consultation. Medicated shampoos are used only as the vet prescribes, with the contact time and frequency they set.
A bath is most useful when the dog has got dirty after an activity, when it already has an established care routine, or when the vet has recommended a specific product.
Bathing more often doesn't make a dog healthier. A strong scent after the bath tells you nothing about the skin.
Start by detangling the coat where you can. Then wet the dog gradually, from the paws up, and shampoo with a suitable product.
Rinse until there's no lather left in the coat. Dry under supervision and finish by checking the skin for redness, flakes or spots the dog won't let you touch.
Watch the dog, not the clock. If it tries to climb out of the bath, tenses up at the sound of the dryer, has red skin or keeps shaking and scratching afterwards, it's telling you how it found the experience and what to change next time.
Get a dog product and a non-slip surface ready beforehand. Keep the towels within reach and set the water to a comfortable temperature. If someone else is bathing the dog, tell them about any skin treatments it's on.
Careful rinsing, a controlled temperature and a dryer brought in gradually are good signs. The dog is never left alone. The tools and the space are clean, and whoever holds the dog stays calm and gives it breaks.
Getting used to the bath, the water and the sound of the dryer is training too, training for care. The dog sets the pace: move on to the next step once it's relaxed with the current one.
Medicated shampoos are used as the vet prescribes. A bath on its own won't treat a skin condition. The risks to keep in mind are slipping, burns from water or air that's too hot, skin irritation and water getting into the airways.
One routine doesn't fit every dog. One needs a bath after every trip to the woods, another does fine with brushing and the odd bath, and for a dog with skin problems the vet makes the call.
How a service is organised responsibly, how to recognise quality, where the limits are and what to ask before you pay - explained once, for all services.
This page explains the service, it does not sell it. Some of these we run ourselves, others happen at a veterinary practice, a grooming salon, or with people we work alongside.
Frequently asked questions
If the dog has itching, wounds, discharge, a persistent smell or unusual hair loss, see the vet first: a bath doesn't replace a consultation. Don't bathe to a fixed timetable either. A bath makes sense when the dog has got dirty after an activity, has an established care routine, or the vet has recommended a specific product.
Mention any skin treatments the dog is on. You'll need a dog product and a non-slip surface. Keep towels within reach and get the water to a comfortable temperature.
Ask how the dog reacts to water and the dryer, and watch it during the bath: trying to get out, tensing at the dryer noise, panting, trembling or freezing, trying to back away, and afterwards redness or persistent shaking and scratching.
Medicated shampoos are used only as the vet prescribes. A bath alone doesn't treat a skin condition.
That's training too: the dog learns to stay settled in the tub and under running water, then next to a dryer that's switched on. Let its response set the pace.
Physical care
You clip or file a dog's nails to keep them at a length it can walk on comfortably. Left too long, they catch and can br...
Looking after ears and teeth at home comes down to a few preventive habits and noticing when something changes. Cleaning...
Clipping takes the coat down with clippers or scissors. Hand-stripping is different: on certain coat types, the mature h...
Canine massage means hands-on touch and techniques for relaxation or comfort. How far it goes depends on the practitione...
Veterinary physiotherapy and rehabilitation start with an assessment of how the dog moves and functions. From there, the...
Hydrotherapy means working in water, for example in a pool or on an underwater treadmill, as part of a plan for recovery...
Write to us about what is actually happening with your dog. We will tell you which kind of service would help - and, if that is the case, that you need none of them.