Mental stimulation games

You can fit mental stimulation in at home, in the yard or on a walk. Your dog hunts for hidden things, works out small tasks, learns new behaviours, picks between objects or gets its food in creative ways. All of it gives the dog some control and variety in its day. These games come into their own on bad-weather days, during recovery, or for dogs that aren't allowed intense physical exercise.

Get the difficulty right. If a puzzle is too hard, the dog may give up, start chewing the thing or get frustrated. Start easy and let the dog figure out the answer on its own. Step in with help before the frustration builds, not after. Choose toys and objects to suit the dog's size and how hard it chews. If there's a chance it'll wreck them or swallow bits, only use them while you're there.

A few ideas: food scattered in the grass, safe cardboard boxes, simple scent trails, picking the right container out of several. The dog can also touch a target with its nose, fetch an object or learn the names of its toys. You don't need expensive kit. What makes the difference is how well you pitch the exercise, and the fact that you're in on it too.

A good brain game isn't an IQ test. It doesn't compare dogs and doesn't set them up to fail. It hands the dog a problem easy enough to crack, and every win builds a bit more confidence.

Brain games earn their place on days with little exercise, with dogs that love solving tasks, and at any age from puppy to senior, with the difficulty matched to the dog.

A hard puzzle isn't better just because it keeps the dog busy for ages. Frustration and endless repeated attempts can take all the fun out of it.

Start with an easy level and show the dog how to get to the reward.

Raise one difficulty at a time. Stop after a few successes, and leave rest between games.

Watch what the dog does with the object. Scratching or biting at it, vocalising, giving up fast or being wound up after the game all tell you how it went, and where you need to make the steps smaller.

You'll need safe objects, and to stay close while the dog plays. Pick suitable rewards and a spot where it isn't competing with another dog. If your dog moves stiffly or doesn't see well, adapt the game to suit.

A good game gives the dog a real chance to succeed and changes from day to day. Objects are big enough not to be swallowed and tough enough not to break. You start from the dog's level, with a warm-up and gradual progression.

Games support self-control and learning. Build the criterion so the dog understands how it can succeed, though; a dog that can't work out what's being asked will just stop playing.

Brain games don't replace walks or contact with other dogs and people, and unsafe objects don't stay with the dog when you're not around. Risks worth discussing: swallowed pieces and resource guarding, then frustration. There's also the food handed out through games, which adds up on top of the daily ration.