The muzzle has been sitting in the hallway for a week. You bought it because the vet asked for one at the next visit, or because your dog belongs to a breed that has to wear one in public where you live, or because he once grabbed a hand and you do not want a repeat. On the first attempt he backed away, rubbed it along the carpet with both paws and then stood frozen, staring at you as if he had been told off. You have not taken it out since. The good news: almost any dog learns to wear a muzzle calmly, and plenty end up pushing their own nose into it. It takes two or three weeks at five minutes a day, and it is built entirely out of things he enjoys.
How to get him used to it, step by step
The right muzzle first. Nearly every problem we see in sessions starts with the wrong muzzle, not with the dog.
Basket or fabric?
A basket muzzle (plastic, soft rubber, silicone or coated wire) is a small cage around the snout. The dog opens his mouth, pants, drinks and takes treats through the gaps. The panting is the part that matters most: a dog cools down with his mouth open and his tongue out, and a muzzle that holds the mouth shut takes away his only way of shedding heat. For walks, travel or a whole day in the hills, only a basket.
A fabric muzzle (a nylon or cloth sleeve that closes the snout) keeps the mouth almost shut. He cannot pant properly and cannot drink. It is fine for a few minutes at the vet, for a nail trim or an injection, and it never stays on a dog in the car, in the sun or on a walk.
How to tell it fits
- Between the tip of the nose and the end of the muzzle there is a finger, or a finger and a half, of room.
- With his mouth wide open, panting, he does not knock against the sides, and his tongue has space.
- It does not press under the eyes or rub the bridge of the nose. Short-faced dogs (bulldogs, pugs) need models made for their heads; standard ones ride up into their eyes.
- The strap behind the ears is tight enough that a paw cannot pull it over his head. Two fingers fit underneath.
- If he falls between two sizes, take the bigger one.
The steps
You need something he genuinely loves, cut small: cheese, cooked chicken, sausage. Some dogs do better with a soft paste (cream cheese, pate) spread on the inside of the basket for them to lick.
- The muzzle appears and good things follow. Take it out of the drawer, hold it, give a treat. Hide it behind your back: nothing. Bring it out again: treat. Ten repetitions, twice a day, without bringing it anywhere near his face. Move on when the sight of the muzzle makes him look at your hand in expectation.
- The nose comes on its own. Hold the muzzle in front of him at snout height, with a treat right in the opening. He touches it with his nose and takes it. Then leave the treat at the bottom of the basket, so he has to push his snout in a little. The dog moves towards the muzzle. You never push it towards him. If he backs off, make the step easier.
- The nose stays in. Once his snout is all the way in, feed three or four treats through the gaps, one after another, and only then take the muzzle away yourself. Build the time by a second or two: from two seconds to ten, then twenty. If he pulls out first, keep it shorter next time.
- The strap. With his nose inside, bring the strap ends behind his ears without fastening them, hold for a second, treat, done. Then fasten and unfasten straight away. Many dogs flinch at the click of the buckle: practise the click on its own, next to him, with a treat after each one.
- Muzzle on, and life carries on. Put it on, give a treat and go straight into something he loves: a ball thrown down the hall, his dinner (small pieces in the bowl so he can eat through the basket, or in his snuffle toy), a walk. The muzzle comes to mean that something good is on its way. Start at one minute and work up to a quarter of an hour.
- Outside. First time on a quiet street, treats in your pocket. People will stare. The dog has no way of knowing anything unusual is going on, unless you show him.
When it is required
Rules differ from one country to the next. Many European countries require listed breeds, or dogs officially classed as dangerous, to wear a muzzle and be on a lead in public; in Romania this comes from a 2002 government ordinance on dangerous and aggressive dogs. Some transport operators require a muzzle on any dog on board, and some vet practices ask for one on any dog that has bitten or tried to. Read the rules of the place before you travel. If you have practised in advance, the rule stops being a problem.
And beyond the law: a dog who has bitten, or tried to, wears a muzzle in risky situations until you have worked with a professional. A seat belt, for him and for everyone else.
By age
The puppy. The easiest time of all. A puppy of four or five months who learns the muzzle as a game will have no trouble with it at the vet years later, when something hurts. He does not need to wear it for long: a minute, twice a week, with his dinner. You change the size as he grows.
The adolescent (6 to 18 months). He tests everything, including how strong the strap is. Make the steps shorter than seems necessary and always stop before he gets bored. If he starts rubbing it on the ground, you skipped a step.
The adult with a bad experience. A dog who had a muzzle forced on him at the vet links it with fear. It is sometimes simpler to start with a different model in a different colour, so he meets it fresh. Step 1 then takes whole days. That is normal.
The senior. He breathes harder, overheats sooner, sometimes has a sore mouth from his teeth. A roomy basket, worn briefly, checked for rubbing. A senior who suddenly will not tolerate a muzzle he has worn for years may have something wrong in his mouth: a check with your own vet.
Common mistakes
The muzzle only appears at the vet. Then it means something bad is coming, and the dog hates it with good reason. If the only place he sees it is the consulting table, he starts struggling in the waiting room.
Forced on, "because he will get used to it". Some dogs freeze when held. They look calm. It is pure fear, and next time they start defending themselves sooner.
Taken off while he struggles. A dog who rubs it on the floor and gets rid of it has learnt that rubbing works. If he struggles, distract him with something easy (a treat on the floor, a cheerful word and a few steps), wait for one second of calm and only then take it off. Next time, shorter.
Fabric as a walking muzzle. We have seen dogs kept for an hour, in summer, in tight fabric muzzles. They cannot pant or drink, and overheating comes fast.
"Roughly" the right size. Too small rubs and hurts. Too big twists and ends up in his eyes. Do the checks above.
The muzzle as punishment. Put on after a growl or a mistake, it becomes the sign that you are cross. The muzzle goes on before the risky situation, in good spirits, never after.
False security. Muzzled, a dog cannot bite. He can still punch with his snout, be every bit as frightened and get into a fight. What frightens him still needs work.
How long it takes and how to tell it is working
For a puppy or a dog with no bad memories, two weeks of five minutes a day. For a dog who has been held down and strapped in by force, a month or more, with patience at step 1.
| Week |
What you are looking for |
| 1 |
Steps 1 to 3. He looks at the muzzle and moves towards it. He puts his nose in on his own and keeps it there for 10 seconds. |
| 2 |
Steps 4 and 5. Strap fastened, muzzle worn 1 to 5 minutes indoors while he does something he enjoys. |
| 3 |
Muzzle worn 10 to 15 minutes, then a short walk outside. |
| From then on |
Once or twice a week, a few minutes, even when you do not need it. |
Signs it is working: you take the muzzle out and his tail goes, he comes over. He pushes his nose in without being asked. Wearing it, he eats, sniffs, plays, shakes himself once and forgets about it.
Signs you went too fast: he paws at it, turns his head away, licks his lips, yawns a lot, freezes or hides when you open the drawer. Go back one step.
Keep up the practice once he has got it. A muzzle that comes out of the drawer once a year, on the very day of the emergency, is a strange object all over again.
When to call a trainer
- your dog has bitten or tried to bite a person or another dog, however "lightly";
- he panics at the sight of the muzzle even after two weeks of small steps;
- he fights the muzzle until he hurts himself;
- you need the muzzle for one particular situation (the vet, public transport, a reactive dog on the street) and you need a plan for that situation, not just a muzzle he tolerates at home.
In an assessment session we look at the dog, the muzzle and the way you put it on. Most of the time the problem is small: the model, the size, a skipped step. If the muzzle is tangled up with fear of the vet, read our guide on fear of the vet as well; the two are worked on together.