Advice for families with several dogs
With several dogs at home, this advice helps you share out resources and space, walks and interactions so that every dog...
You get your dog used to the crate and the car one small step at a time, including the movement of the drive and the short stops where he waits safely.
A crate can become the place where your dog feels safe, as long as you introduce it gradually. Leave it open and put food and treats inside, then let him decide when to go in. Only close the door, for a few seconds, once he's relaxed in there. After that, slowly build up how long the door stays shut and how far away you move.
Never use the crate as a punishment. It doesn't make up for missed walks or a lack of supervision either. It has to be big enough for the dog to stand up, turn round and lie down comfortably. If the carrier you're travelling with has its own size rules, follow them as well.
With the car, start from a distance. Let him approach it, then get in with the engine off. Once he's calm, start the engine. Then take short drives to places he likes, such as somewhere he can go for a walk. Secure him before you set off. He gets in and out with the leash clipped on, so he can't shoot out of the door.
If he drools, vomits, shakes, whines or won't get in, it could be travel sickness, fear or both. Combine the exercises with your vet's advice, and don't force him into long journeys.
It's worth considering mostly for puppies before their first trips, dogs who refuse the car, and dogs who are going to travel, visit the vet or stay in boarding kennels.
Shut a dog in a crate for a long drive with no lead-up and he may panic. A crate that's been used as a punishment gets harder and harder for him to accept.
The dog explores the crate of his own accord. Only then do you close the door, for short spells.
With the car, he gets used to it with the engine off and then running. After that come short drives that you lengthen bit by bit.
Your dog shows you how he's feeling: drooling and nausea, scratching at the door, trembling, or not wanting to go near the car at all. Those signs tell you what it's like for him and whether you need to go back a step.
You'll need a crate of the right size and a way to secure it in the car. Bring treats he loves. If you suspect travel sickness, talk to the vet early.
A serious plan moves in small steps and takes the dog to neutral or pleasant places. The dog is never left alone in the car. You also want clear goals and handouts you can use, with examples that look like your own trips.
This is training through desensitisation and positive association. The dog's reactions set the pace. The departure date shouldn't come into it: rush the steps to hit a deadline and you may end up starting over.
Sedation never happens without a vet. A crate doesn't make up for a lack of exercise or rest. Talk through the risks too: the dog bolting when the door opens, overheating, injury in a crate that isn't secured, and severe panic.
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Frequently asked questions
Not every dog needs a full programme, but it's especially useful for puppies before their first trips, dogs who refuse the car, and dogs who'll be travelling, going to the vet or staying in boarding kennels.
You need a crate of the right size and a securing system. Bring treats, and talk to your vet about travel sickness.
When the advice is about one specific dog, watch for drooling and nausea. Also look for scratching at the door, trembling or refusing to go near the car. If things are going well, the dog has to be forced in fewer and fewer situations, and the family responds more predictably.
Sedation is never given without a vet, and a crate doesn't make up for a lack of exercise or rest.
It's training through desensitisation and positive association. The dog's response sets the pace, and the departure date shouldn't hurry it.
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